The choice of species will depend upon such things as the height needed at maturity, whether foliage or canes are to be the main feature, whether the site is in sun or shade, and the degree of vigour required.

   Non-running bamboos  are all species of Fargesia, Borinda, Chusquea and Thamnocalamus.

Species of Borinda form the tallest screens but are not yet available in quantity so it may  be necessary to use a mixture of Borinda species.

Fargesia nitida or Fargesia nitida 'Jiuzhaigou' will reach between 2.5 and 4m and have plentiful upright canes. 'Jiuzhaigou clone 1'  is commonly known as 'Red Panda'  and 'Jiuzhaigou Genf' is particularly useful if more height is needed.

When selecting varieties for hedging, allowance needs to be made for the fact that the cold tolerance of bamboos is reduced when planted in a position exposed to strong winds. 

SPACING of about one plant per metre should be adequate for hedging, but plants can be 
spaced as closely as you wish in order to give a more rapid result. 

A wider spacing can be used for informal screens, especially if there is more than just a single row. 

If planting takes place during spring, it is worth remembering that new canes  develop only from ground level and will normally reach a greater height than the existing canes from the previous season. 

The older canes will not increase in height or thickness as a tree would do, so it will make very little difference if they are shortened to facilitate delivery.

Regular feeding and watering will naturally improve the speed at which a dense and effective screen can be established and the heights indicated may not be readily achieved on dry or impoverished sites.. Thinning of older canes in spring is desirable but not essential.

Fargesia murielae as a hedge

Phyllostachys aureosulcata 'Aureocaulis'

Semiarundinaria 'Kimmei'

Container grown bamboos for screening

Specimen plants and plant association

Many forms of bamboo can be highly decorative and effective in containers as long as normal attention is given to regular watering and feeding.  Automatic watering systems are a great advantage and if there is

already an outside tap, this is relatively inexpensive.  "Access Irrigation" of Crick, Rugby are specialists.

As with any evergreens, bamboos are vulnerable to winter damage by desiccation if the roots become frozen while the foliage is exposed to wind, so precautions need to be taken during very frosty weather. This may mean plunging or wrapping the container, or moving it to a more sheltered place .

On a patio, there is a great advantage in taking up a single paver to create a planting site unless the use of a container is actually preferred for decorative purposes. Beds created from sleepers are an alternative and provide more stability against wind, together with the opportunity for a larger soil volume. A minimum soil volume of 50L per plant is desirable. Holes suitable for drainage are essential in any form of container and the water requirements of any plants grown without access to the soil should not be underestimated.

Half-barrels are ideal containers for bamboos, especially as, in future years, the plant can easily be removed for thinning or planting in the garden. The large plastic containers used on nurseries can also be useful and their appearance can be very effectively disguised by a roll of thin cane fencing.  The compost in metal containers is liable to heat up in summer and cool down in winter more quickly.

If proprietary composts are to be used for containers, it is preferable to create a mix which includes about ten percent loam and some coarse sand or "John Innes grit" (2/4mm). A high content of composted green waste is undesirable as it is liable to slump over a period of time.

When assessing the need for watering,  the appearance of the compost is a good guide or otherwise, rub the surface to see if  it feels dry.  For this reason, mulching the surface may not be desirable.When newly planted,  bamboos cannot utilise the whole volume of the surrounding soil and are dependent upon the original rootball  so it is important to water directly into the centre of the plant. Assuming free draining compost and that there are holes in the base of the toughs or pots,  it is not likely that you will over-water.

 Thinking ahead to possible holidays, an automatic watering system is almost essential to preserve container  plants in your absence.

 A wide range of  bamboos can be grown in pots, etc. but those which would be the most tolerant of being kept in containers would include those listed below. (Other sorts  which seem to be actually  unsuitable for growing in containers are mentioned in their online descriptions).

If there is no likelyhood of the bamboos being transplanted into the garden at a later date, there is no advantage in restricting the choice of species to clump forming types. Running bamboos will have the advantage of filling troughs or containers more quickly and with fewer plants needed.

For medium height - Pseudosasa japonica, Semiarundinaria kagamiana, S. makinoi, S. 'Kimmei', Hibanobambusa 'Shiroshima',  Yushania maculata & other Yushania species, Fargesia rufa & otherFargesia species, and possibly Bashania species.

Low growing types - Indocalamus tessellatus & others, Pleioblastus auricomus, Sasa spp.

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Groundcover

 The tough, vigorously spreading nature of Indocalamus, Sasa and Sasaella species can be used to good effect for stabilising steep banks or to provide a decorative carpet in woodland or other shady areas. In addition, once established, they will normally suppress weed growth very effectively. Their appearance can be maintained by occasional hard trimming in spring.

 The same sorts are also capable of filling a container with dense, luxuriant foliage within a single season.

Planting and care

Before planting, it may be desirable to incorporate organic matter such as peat, leaf mould or well rotted compost into the soil. Similar material can be used as a surface mulch but not for re-filling the planting hole. After removing the pot, position the plant with about one inch of soil covering the original root-ball and firm the soil around it.

A light topdressing of general fertiliser can be applied thinly over the soil surface in spring and again during summer, avoiding contact with the foliage. Water after planting and also regularly during spring and summer while the plants are taking root. The foliage cannot wilt, but if the leaves are seen to be curling inwards, this is a sign that watering is urgently needed. 

Until the plants are fully established, they are vulnerable to damage by keen frosts, strong wind or high temperatures and temporary protection by means of fleece or other permeable material may be desirable if these conditions occur.

The appearance of well established plants may benefit from thinning a proportion of the canes so that the best stems can be more effectively displayed - this is especially the case when a grove is required rather than clumps. Thinning the canes is also a means of reducing the amount of shade cast by bamboos used for screening. Removal of some lower branches will further enhance visibility of the stems and may also result in thicker canes being produced in future years. Some of the more vigorous species can be a useful source of garden canes.

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Canes and bamboo shoots

 If you are fortunate enough to have more culms than needed within a clump or grove, the older or thinner ones can be harvested for use as garden canes, preferably in early summer after new culms have finished expanding. This will ensure that most of the food reserves stored in the old culms are passed to the younger portion of the plant. 

Any tall growing bamboo can provide canes for garden or craft uses but there are differences between species in terms of colour and wall thickness of the canes. Bashania fargesii  is particularly useful if space is available for its vigorously spreading habit.

In the event of  substantial quantities of canes being available, there are a multitude of craft uses for them, many of which are described by Carol Strangler in "The Art and Craft of Bamboo"   (published in 2001 by Lark Books).

The emerging shoots of most bamboos are edible after boiling but the texture and flavour varies very much between species. Bamboo shoots quickly become bitter as they mature and are best harvested within about a week after emergence. The tougher outer portions of the shoot can be discarded after cooking.  In China Phyllostachys dulcis and Phyllostachys praecox are particularly valued for  bamboo shoots.

e-mail:     sales@uk-bamboos.co.uk